Gold Anklets and Toe Rings: Traditions, Styles, Etiquette

Gold anklets and toe rings: the cultural context first

Gold anklets and toe rings are worn by some Indian women, but many traditional families avoid gold below the waist out of respect for gold as a symbol of the goddess Lakshmi, which is why payals and toe rings are customarily silver. Gold anklets are a modern or regional choice, so check your family's custom first, then choose a durable 14K or 18K design with a secure clasp.

Few pieces of jewellery carry as much cultural layering as foot ornaments. The chime of a payal is part of how many of us remember our mothers and grandmothers moving through the house. Toe rings, called bichiya in Hindi, metti in Tamil, mettelu in Telugu and jodvi in Marathi, are a marker of marriage in many communities.

Because these customs vary so widely between regions, castes and individual families, there is no single right answer. This guide explains the reasoning behind the traditions, where gold is accepted, and how to choose and care for foot jewellery whichever metal you pick.

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Why silver is traditional on the feet

In many Hindu households, gold is treated as sacred and associated with Lakshmi, so placing it on the feet, the lowest part of the body, is considered disrespectful. Silver, associated with the moon and often described in folk belief as cooling, became the customary metal for anklets and toe rings.

Folk explanations also link silver toe rings to wellbeing, though these are traditional beliefs rather than established medical facts. What is clear is that silver is affordable, easy to repair, and comfortable for constant wear, which made it practical for ornaments worn every day for decades.

Historically, some royal households and wealthy families did wear gold on the feet, and in parts of the country you will still find gold payals given to brides. If you are unsure, the simplest approach is to ask older relatives what your family has done.

Regional practice differs too. In parts of South India, silver kolusu are given to baby girls and replaced as they grow, while in many North Indian weddings, silver payals and bichiya are part of the bride's shringar along with sindoor and bangles. Each of these customs places foot ornaments within a wider set of symbols, which is why many women are careful about the metal.

Where gold anklets are accepted

Outside strictly traditional settings, many younger Indian women treat anklets as fashion rather than ritual, and a fine gold chain anklet has become popular for beach holidays, brunches and parties. Women from families without the custom, and many in the diaspora, wear gold anklets comfortably.

Some communities accept gold anklets for brides or for children, while others accept gold on the feet only for deities. Several families settle on gold-plated silver or gold-toned silver as a middle path that gives the warm colour without wearing solid gold on the feet.

Whichever you choose, it helps to know the etiquette. If you are attending a traditional wedding or visiting elders, silver or no anklet at all avoids any awkwardness, while at a casual party a gold anklet is unlikely to raise eyebrows.

Anklet designs from traditional to modern

Traditional payals are often broad, with several strands, intricate links and rows of small ghungroo bells that chime with every step. Rajasthani and Gujarati designs can be very heavy, while South Indian kolusu tend to be slimmer with delicate bells.

Modern anklets are usually single fine chains with a tiny charm, bead, evil eye, heart or bezel-set stone. They are almost silent and suit western outfits, flats and sandals. Double-strand and layered styles add a beachy feel without bulk.

Beaded designs that combine gold with black beads, pearls or coloured stones bridge traditional and modern looks and work with both kurtas and dresses.

When choosing an anklet for daily wear, think about sound. Ghungroo payals are joyful at festivals but can be distracting in offices, libraries and quiet homes at night. Many women keep a silent everyday anklet and a chiming festive pair.

Width also changes the look. A fine chain looks delicate and modern, a mid-width chain with a few small bells feels traditional yet wearable, and a broad multi-strand payal is a statement best saved for weddings and dance.

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Toe ring traditions and styles

Toe rings are traditionally worn on the second toe of both feet by married women in many North and South Indian communities. In Tamil and Telugu weddings, the groom or his family often places the metti on the bride's toes during the ceremony.

Designs range from plain bands to coiled spirals, floral tops, stone-set rings and fish motifs, which symbolise fertility in some traditions. Many are adjustable, with an open back, so they can be fitted snugly and removed when needed.

Some women wear toe rings on the middle toe as well, or several on one foot. Fashion toe rings on other toes are purely decorative and carry no traditional meaning.

Sizing anklets and toe rings

Measure around your ankle just above the ankle bone with a soft tape and add about 2 to 3 centimetres for a relaxed fit that sits slightly lower on the foot. Most anklets fall between about 9 and 11 inches. An extender chain gives flexibility through seasons when ankles can swell in heat.

For toe rings, adjustable designs are easiest, but avoid squeezing them repeatedly, as this weakens the metal. They should be snug enough not to spin or slide off, yet loose enough not to leave marks.

If you are buying for someone else, an adjustable toe ring and an anklet with an extender are the safest choices.

Toe rings should never feel tight while walking. Feet swell during the day, especially in hot weather and on long journeys, so check the fit in the evening and loosen adjustable rings slightly if they leave marks.

Choosing purity and durability

Foot jewellery takes more friction, sweat and water than any other piece. For gold anklets, 14K and 18K are more sensible than 22K because they are harder and resist stretching and wear. Look for the BIS hallmark with the purity grade and a six-digit HUID.

For silver, look for 925 sterling silver from a reputable seller. Pure silver is very soft, while lower-grade alloys can contain metals that irritate skin. Silver tarnishes, but it cleans easily.

Lobster clasps are the most secure for anklets. Spring rings are common but can fail, especially when caught on bedsheets or straps.

If you choose gold-plated silver for the warm colour, remember that plating wears fastest on foot jewellery because of friction. Expect to re-plate it periodically, and treat it as a styling choice rather than an investment in gold.

Styling foot jewellery

With sarees and lehengas, silver payals and toe rings are the classic pairing, especially with alta or mehendi on the feet. With western outfits, a single fine anklet is enough; pair it with strappy sandals, cropped trousers or a midi dress.

Avoid wearing anklets with closed shoes and socks, where they rub and snag. If you wear both a payal and toe rings, keep them in the same metal for harmony.

Pedicured feet make foot jewellery look its best, and nude or red nail polish suits both gold and silver.

Foot jewellery is also an accessory to your footwear. Kolhapuri chappals, juttis and simple flat sandals show off payals beautifully, while chunky sneakers and closed heels hide them. Plan your anklet around the shoes you will actually wear.

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Price, buying and care

Silver anklets and toe rings are relatively affordable, while gold anklets depend on weight, purity and making charges, typically starting from several thousand rupees for fine chains. Exchange and buyback terms vary by seller, so ask before buying.

Remove anklets before swimming in the sea or chlorinated pools and before long showers. Wash with mild soap, dry thoroughly and store separately so chains do not tangle. Clean silver with a polishing cloth.

Check clasps and toe ring openings regularly, as foot jewellery is easily lost when it catches on rugs, bedding or footwear straps.